Thanks again for Giant's contribution. The translation is accurate and the level is good!
No matter where we go mountaineering (including in Qingliangfeng, Damingshan, etc. where we often go), we can’t avoid dealing with the locals. The Lu Sange Brothers of the Four Girls, the Tashi from Xuebaoding, and the Alpine Collaboration of Tibet’s Mountaineering School , etc.... Being friendly with them and sending each other enough mutual respect is a necessary quality and safety premise. However, at the same time we must have our own judgment.
Sherpa
Langba, Dorje, Tenzin, Nava, Darcy – You will soon be familiar with these ordinary Sherpa names. These names often only represent the days of the week: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and so on. When Sherpas are born, they are often named for their convenience on the day of their birth.
Some people see the Sherpas as children of pure, natural, and mysterious nature; some see them as inferior citizens of the third world. In fact, the Sherpas are just like us. Some are good and some are bad. Most people are in the middle.
The Sherpas are indigenous peoples of the Khumbu Valley around Mount Everest. As the generations lived in high altitudes, they were naturally adapted to this environment. As long as you are well trained, you will find that in Katmandu you can do more push-ups than the Sherpas. But don't be too happy. Once you reach 3000 meters above sea level, most Sherpas will easily exceed you. Their natural superiority is the most obvious in 8000 meters. After this height, the Sherpas will face the same difficulties as ordinary people. At the height above Camp 4, many Sherpas need to carry oxygen to achieve good conditions.
It is usually easy and enjoyable to get along with the Sherpas. They are proud of their mountain climbing traditions, just as Gurkhas are proud of their martial tradition.
As the Sherpas are stronger than our average person at high altitudes, they are comfortable with the alpine-style exploration in the Himalayas. You will need them to transport oxygen, equip and escort the top. Many single climbers actually hired Sherpas for help in climbing the mountain. Since we are not naturally adapted to high altitudes, climbing the Mount Everest is very difficult for us, so the Sherpas' help is very useful to us.
Collaborating with the Sherpas requires good management and you will find a good Sherpa guide from the beginning. Adventure agents will recommend Sherpas to you. See if the people they recommend have had the experience of summiting and when they climbed the top (we used to hire the two Sherpas who had climbed to the top and later found out that they put the most recent summit time in 1978 and 1982). !)
Also check whether the Sherpas you employ are motivated to summit again. Young Sherpas who have never been summited will be eager to summit but lack experience. The Sherpas who have already reached the summit may be satisfied with the relatively high status and salary given to them by the fact that they have been crowned and lack the motivation to reach the summit again.
Learn about the Sherpas they admire from other climbers and choose from them. In spite of this, you will still have to work with Sherpas who are not particularly familiar with it. Remember that the more autonomous and the better you are, the less dependent you will be on them. If the weather is good enough, and they trust your ability, they will hit you with the summit, or as close as possible to the top.
Remember a simple fact: Get melons and grow beans. Some Sherpas are famous climbers (which means responsible and hard work), which means you have to pay them more than other Sherpas.
Although you should be careful not to spend money in the wrong place, you still have to think about whether or not they will refuse to help you when they need help most.
Again, remind you that what you ask the person you employ to do must be agreed in writing with the recommended agency. Also have a face-to-face interview with the Sherpas who will be employed in Kathmandu to know what you want them to do, so that you can be sure that you know what to do. In spite of this, don't be surprised if there is any difference between what you are doing on the hill and what you are talking about in Kathmandu. This is normal and you have to deal with it at any time.
Finally, remember that the Sherpas are not your servants. Use them when there are key and important tasks. They speak poor English and have not received much education, but they have their own dignity. They need respect and, like any company employee, use incentives to lead them.
We have already discussed equipment, climbing decisions and solutions to various problems. Make sure you know at any time what will happen during the expedition; what tents to use where, how much fuel, food and equipment to use in each camp.
Carefully check the oxygen, throttle and oxygen hood beforehand. Mark the user's name on each item. Can't rely on your Sherpa team leader completely: You are the leader! Only then will you be respected and your decisions will be trusted.
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