The similarity of men and women in sports often leads to the misconception that women should copy everything in men's training so that their performance is as close as possible to that of men. As with other sports, rock climbing is not only required to master various skills, but also requires arduous special physical training. This article attempts to analyze the anatomy and physiological characteristics of female athletes in the rock climbing.
A: physical characteristics
There are differences in the proportion of men and women in the figure. The upper body of women is relatively long, the legs are relatively short, the body center of gravity is 6% lower than men, so women have better balance ability. In addition, the woman's shoulder is also narrow, and the hips are relatively large. . Women's muscles are less developed than men whose muscles account for 40% to 50% of their body weight. They usually do not exceed 35% of their body weight. According to the study of Letovov (former Soviet Union), women's body fat accounts for their weight. 28%, while men's body fat averages only 18% of body weight, which means that women 10% more than men - 15% is conducive to exercise muscle, and 10% more than men's unhealthy adipose tissue, but Excluding some leg workers, the hips are narrow and lean, with the exception of female athletes who exhibit greater athletic potential. Since the abdomen, shoulder and leg muscles of women are much weaker than men, according to the above characteristics, special attention should be paid to the development of absolute strength and strength endurance in climbing training.
On the other hand, because the content of water and fat in the female bone tissue is greater than that of men, the intervertebral cartilage in the spine is thicker, so the woman has better flexibility and flexibility in the prosthetic section, making the woman's timing and rhythm of her own movements. The adjustment is good, which makes them have favorable conditions for smoothness, dexterity and flexibility in the sport. In a sense, female athletes can master technology more effectively.
B: menstrual training
Traditional prejudices have a great influence on the correct understanding of women's physical characteristics in sports. The vast majority of female players do not train or casually move during menstruation, but the actual situation is the opposite. During the menstrual period, there are mild uncomfortable feelings, such as abdominal bloating, backache, poor appetite, tiredness, and emotional excitability. These are normal physiological phenomena of menstruation and can be trained as usual, but the amount of exercise can be adjusted appropriately. Appropriate exercise capacity can effectively improve the body's functional status, promote blood circulation, abdominal muscles during exercise, the pelvic floor of the account of the contraction and relaxation alternating, massage effect on the uterus is conducive to the discharge of menstrual blood. People's adaptability is very strong, and menstrual training will adapt quickly.
Of course, it does not exclude the differences between individuals. As found in the survey, 81.6% of female athletes showed normal or better performance during menstruation, and 18.4% of athletes were below their normal level. Achievement level.
From the above, it can be seen that there are individual differences in the body during the menstrual cycle, and it should be recognized that once the athlete is engaged in rock climbing, she must have a firm belief and a hard-working spirit. As a female athlete, menstrual periods can be used to do something like: hand muscles. , upper arm muscles, forearm muscles and force techniques: grasp, pull, push, squat, tread, friction and balance ability training.
C: Development power
In terms of its technology, rock climbing is the fixed point of climbing. It requires athletes to have great strength to overcome their own gravity. Therefore, the development of special forces in climbing training becomes extremely important. Especially for female athletes, the muscles are not well developed and the body fat is high. Together with the female muscle, the moisture content is 74.7%, and the sugar content is less than that of men. Therefore, the female muscle strength is weak. Muscle strength is related to the function of the nervous system, the physiology and biochemistry of the muscle and the cross-sectional area of ​​muscle physiology. The cross-section of the muscle is increased due to thickening of the fibers. The cross-section is thick and the muscles are strong. The strength training is muscle fiber. To increase the effective means of developing women's muscle strength, in conjunction with the climbing project, not only to develop the strength of shoulder straps, back muscles, abdominal muscles, and pelvic muscles, but also to develop specialized forces such as upper arm muscles and forearms. Muscle, foot muscles, hand muscles, etc.; there are many training methods for their developmental forces. Generally, the shoulder strap muscles are lifted with the weighted straight arm and the puller, etc.; the back muscles are shrugged with a pull-up barbell, pull-ups, climbing poles, and weight-bearing bodies. Flexion and extension; abdominal muscles with supine vertical angle, weight swivel, supine legs, etc.; pelvic muscles with high weight lifting leg, kicking, prone "back legs", weight-bending leg flexion and extension; upper arm with parallel bars supporting flexion and extension, Forearm muscle with positive and negative anti-inserted weights, positive and negative grip heavy wrist flexion and extension; hand muscles with fingers hanging, grip, finger grip and other heavy objects. According to the transcripts, the fastest stage of power development is 13-14 years old. The Soviet Union Klobokov studied the changes of muscle strength at different ages and proposed that the highest peak of strength is in the period of 20-23 years, that is, women aged 13-14 years. At that time, the absolute power growth was fastest, and the strength was greatest at 20-23 years old. In this way, during the training process, physical exercise should be reasonably arranged according to the athlete's age and physical condition. In general, the age of rock climbers is now mostly around the age of 18-23. At this time, the value of power is basically close to the highest point. The absolute power increases slowly, and the amount and intensity of power training must be performed in a wave-like manner. According to the characteristics of women, strength, training should avoid the use of single, heavy weight, repeated methods, which will produce heavy pressure on the lower part of the pelvis; do not limit the action of the training vice, otherwise it will make ligaments, muscle tension, affect muscles elasticity.
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