BY HEATHER REYNOLDS SAGAR
FROM CLIMBING 174 PAGE 132~137
(There are nine illustrations in the original text. Please check the original when there is something unclear about the training posture.)
Three months of continuous rock climbing in the western United States rock field caused me to feel severe pain in my elbow. Even raising a bottle of milk was very laborious, and when Hueco Tanks played bouldering, it was even more painful that I had to give up. It may be time to return to Canada to do some treatment.
After the diagnosis of tendonitis, I stopped rock climbing and continued to apply ice for four weeks, during which I avoided elbow movement. In the following year and a half, I restricted myself to climbing only a few long and simple routes, but the pain continued to occur. Then I tried some new therapies, including the use of some ointments, acupuncture and massage. However, the situation did not improve, until I started to do some high-powered low-weight training to strengthen the strength of the triceps, the pain disappeared, and no longer relapse.
As a result of post-mortem analysis, my tendonitis was caused by imbalanced muscle development. Excessive muscles: biceps, and their relatively weak antagonists: triceps. This situation is more common in rock climbers than you think.
Unbalanced development of power:
Stretch your biceps to raise your forearm, and in this movement its relative muscles: The triceps tend to stretch, which controls the biceps contraction speed. If the muscles on one side of the arm are too strong and the muscles on the other side of the arm are too strong and develop unevenly, it will cause injury. This is why the sprinters who are very strong in the quadriceps often cause their antagonist muscles to tear.
Rock climbers generally suffer from imbalanced muscle development. In the relationship between biceps and triceps, strong contractions of the biceps tear the triceps or tendons, one of the causes of tendonitis in the elbow.
The problem of the shoulders is customary in the climbers because the muscles above the back of the climber and the muscles above the shoulders are usually stronger and stronger than the muscles in front of the chest and shoulders. The appearance of uneven development on the shoulders causes a slight rearrangement of the shoulder muscles, and the tip of the muscles will be squeezed when moving.
Inclined surface climbing requires the use of muscles in the lower abdomen and muscles to tighten the body, and the muscles under the back will help maintain the body's stiffness against the muscles of the lower abdomen. This type of climbing combined with uneven muscle development can cause pain and stiffness under the back.
Many climbers do not attach importance to the muscles of the feet, but we often use the power of the quadriceps when climbing. Because we often rely on the use of the quadriceps, it can cause muscle imbalances that can damage our hamstrings.
Softness imbalance:
The difference in softness between the opposing muscle groups can also cause many problems. Between the contractions of the antagonistic muscles, the lower-soft muscles are harmed, and the climber must also be aware that the better the muscles are, the more powerful they are.
The biceps is a good example of the loss of softness. A year ago, one of my belays hurt his biceps when he was practicing on an artificial rock. He was about to use a gaston to pass through a rock horn. He needed to contract the triceps to maintain this movement, resulting in enough results. Pulling the power of his biceps tip. (Translator's Note: Gaston, imagine that you will not squeeze the cracks and no other hand points, you have to push the cracks with your hands and push out forcefully, this movement is called gaston. At the beginning of a European to the United States to climb the rock Without squeezing the cracks, we came up with this method and completed many difficult cracked routes. The Americans used his name to name it.
By Lajin to prevent
Lacing can prevent unbalanced development of softness, both in-house and outdoors, before and after each rock climbing. A slight warm-up, like a fifteen-minute climb on the rock wall and some easy routes, will allow the blood to flow and make stretching easier and more productive. Take a break in each climbing interval until you feel full recovery, and at least do one or two closing exercises. This will reduce muscle stiffness and injury. Sufficient rest gives the muscles time to replenish oxygen and convert energy. The same closing exercise can also reenergize oxygen-depleted muscles and speed up recovery.
The following lacing can prevent the tendency of muscle imbalance to develop:
YOGA DIP (Yoga exercises)
Hands and feet on the ground, hips tilted, so that the whole body like a inverted V. Between the hand and the hand, shoulders are the same width and feet are the same. This position will stretch the lower half of your back to the back of your knee. Then it's kind of like standing up, but keep your knees from bending. Bend your elbows and bend the body in an arc, moving slowly until the face is straight forward. This position allows the lower abdomen to stretch.
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